Somewhere in the Victorian era, people started coming up with ideas for making corsets more comfortable to wear. Gigglishiously ironical though that may sound, some great innovations came out of it. One of my favs is the single layer corset – no lining, no interlining, just a base layer of fabric and some boning. If you do outdoor events in the summer, it’s a trick worth adapting. (“It’s period! It’s just not quite your period, dear rennie…” says the voice of evil. Heh. ;) )
So what’s the big secret?
A single layer corset, like any other corset, needs two things:
- a way to hold its bones securely
- a way to hide the ugly
For the bones, you’ll want a big ol’ batch of bias tape. I recommend making your own, since you’ll save a bunch of money and you won’t be tied to whatever odd assortment of colors the nice folks at Wright’s have decided are worthy of bias-tape-dom. Bias tape will also figure into the “hide the ugly” portion of the single layer corset.
Here’s the trick:
If that all seems like a lot of bother, you could just use a pretty ribbon. ;) Heck, you could use ribbons for the boning casings as well. I’m using bias because most of my casing lines are curved.
The original this is based on used corded coutil. Mine is made of two bits of twill and 2 layers of 1/8″ cotton quilt batting channel stitched together. I only need to make the bottom edge pretty – everything else will be hidden by other elements of the corset…
Not sure how to put in a closing busk? Try this.
I’m actually using these as functional boning channels, as well. I find that boning the curved seams really helps shape the finished corset.
Whack some grommets in, and you’re good to go.
If there’s one thing I hate, it’s unfinished bits inside of a project. It’s like they’re just waiting for a chance to rear their ugly little heads and shame you publicly…
So, if this is a single layer corset, how come the back of the body is different to the front? The reason I’m using this technique is because I wanted to make the corset out of this lovely, completely inappropriate, chocolate brown twill. So I flat-mounted the twill pieces on duck that matches the twill I used for the bias. (Flat-mount is a clever way of saying, “I stacked two pieces and treated them like one while sewing.”