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Sempstress

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As Ye Sew, So Shall Ye Rip…
Posted on February 23, 2014February 22, 2014 by missa
Posted in Tips and Cheats Tagged Quick Fixes, Seam Ripping 2 Comments
Sew the shoulders. IF you are going to do a fit check next, baste the side seams in. Do not backtack - these basted stitches will be removed after the fit check.

Do You Really Need a Serger?
Posted on February 22, 2014 by missa
Posted in Tips and Cheats Tagged serger, zig-zag Leave a comment
Finished fronts - left and right. Yay!

How to Sew a Simple Vest
Posted on February 22, 2014 by missa
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The target sketch - we settled on a simple princess line that ends at the hip. The armscyes have been lowered, the shoulders narrowed at the outside, and the neckline dropped slightly. It closes at the center front with a zip.

A Long Princess Line Vest
Posted on February 17, 2014February 18, 2014 by missa
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This is what happens with you have an obtuse (larger than square) angle going into the seam. That's what happened in our first example. Notice that the waistline is not straight - it angles up at the center.

Why Square Corners?
Posted on February 10, 2014 by missa
Posted in Flat Pattern, For My Students, How Stuff Works Tagged Flat Pattern, Pattern Drafting, Seams 3 Comments
We started with a hasty white-board sketch of what we were trying to make, as well as a discussion of some technical stuff, like notches, facings (dashed blue lines), the shape of the block neckline (dashed red), the buttonhole extension, and the piece names.

A Simple Vest Pattern
Posted on February 10, 2014February 10, 2014 by missa
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Start by looking at the design you want to make. Where does the yoke sit on the shoulder? Is it straight or angled? Ours hits the middle of the neck curve, and angles down into the armscye.

A Yoke and Gathered Fullness
Posted on February 10, 2014February 10, 2014 by missa
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As always, start by comparing the block you have to the picture of what you want. In this case, we have a two dart front sloper and we want a princess line that hits about mid-armhole.

Armscye Princess Line Manipulation
Posted on February 9, 2014February 10, 2014 by missa
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Locate the center of the new dart-tuck cluster, based on the sample problem. In this case, there are three tucks: one at the bust level, one above, and one below. We're starting with the one at the bust level.

Center Front Tuck-Dart Cluster
Posted on February 4, 2014February 4, 2014 by missa
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Mark the location of the new dart, based on the assignment sheet.

Turning One Dart Into Two
Posted on February 4, 2014 by missa
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Recent Posts

  • As Ye Sew, So Shall Ye Rip…
  • Do You Really Need a Serger?
  • How to Sew a Simple Vest
  • A Long Princess Line Vest
  • Why Square Corners?

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