Modeling the Body’s Curves
As previously discussed, the problem with a body with curves is that it operates on curved lines instead of straight ones. To make our straight block into a curved block, we’re going to take out long triangles along the Waist line (or Bust line, for those with a smaller Bust).
First, we need to decide where to do our taking out. For most figures, you can divide the body like this: (We’ll cover an exception later)
Now we can start marking in the triangles that will let us bend the block to better match the body. To do that, we need to do some math to figure out just how much to remove. There are three lines that we’ll be working with: the two mid-lines we just marked, and the side line. The Back midline will have difference based on the back measurements removed, and the front midline will have difference based on the from measurements removed. The side line…. Well, the back side of the side line will be based on the back measurement, and the front side will be based on the front measurement. (Did I mention that the female torso is not really a regular conic section? Weeeellll….) What this means, basically, is that we’re going to remove the extra front from three places (both sides of the midline and the front side of the sideline). Ditto to the back. The amount we’re removing is based on half the difference between the Bust and Waist Front (or Back). Half? We started our block with half of the Bust Front and Bust Back measurements, on the assumption that your body is pretty close to matching between the right and left sides. So, you need to compute:
1/6(Bust Front – Waist Front) = Front Triangle Base
1/6(Bust Back – Waist Back) = Back Triangle Base
If you are working with a larger Waist than Bust, please reverse accordingly.
The triangle at the Side line is shorter. If we were to extend it all the way up to the Bust line, we’d be removing area from inside the Armscye. Since the area inside the Armscye is destined to be removed anyway, this will cause some problems (notably, the Armscye will be shrunken down where the triangle intersects it).
Next, we’ll begin marking the armscy out…