Just a note: many pattern drafting books tell you that center back is always on the straight. The Moulage draft builds a tiny curve to shape the small of the back. A lot of bodies have a fair amount of junk in the trunk these days, and require a fitting angle below the waist. In these cases, trying to force the center back of the body to be on the straight of the grain will cause weird grain issues and possibly fit issues. Sometimes the same thing is true of center front for extremely chesty women (especially implants!). If you look at older patterns, like from before the 1920s, we used to know this and accept it as normal. We’ve just gotten lazier as pattern makers. :( Anyhoosies….
I don’t have pictures for those. I got a little excited because I was close to done.
You can cut both sides of the body if you want. It’s probably a good idea to fit the whole body on a RLHB, because live people move. With a stand, half is fine. She has seams to guide you.
See? I do actually know how to use pins. :P So why is it that She Who Hates Pinning is suddenly telling you to go gonzo with pins? Wouldn’t it have been easier to baste the darned thing?
Yes. And hella faster. But if we baste it, it’s way harder to size anything up during the fitting. And also the seam allowances are on the outside and it makes people look bigger than they are.
Once you decide that you’re all fitted up (and if you followed the directions and placed all the velcros correctly, I believe this should be a fairly fast process), you’ll want to protect the block you just made. You could transfer it to a heavier paper and cut it out in that, or apply a pretty beefy interfacing to the backs of the fabric pieces to stabilize them and prevent stretching and warping.
If you have a dress form at home that’s smaller than you are, you can make up a new cover using this block. Cut two each of all the pieces (ie, give yourself a seam at center front instead of cutting on the fold), sew them together and chuck a zip up the center back. Add stuffing or some other padding around the smaller form, and put the new cover on. Check the fit and adjust the amount of stuffing as needed, then zip her up!
You could also make a torso form, but you’d need to make a stable base, a neck, cover pieces for the armscyes and neck, and probably an armature inside. I haven’t tried it, but I’ve seen it.
If you do a lot of historical work, you can pretty easily use this method to get a block of your body while corseted, thus answering the eternal question, “Where exactly are my boobs right now?”
You’re also in an awesome spot for making an eight panel Victorian corset from this – just nip in the waist a bit at the fronts and sides, and decide how high/low you want it. You’re in an equally good place for a modern bustier, and not in a bad place for knits, which also work on zero to negative amounts of ease.
What you are not in a good place for is making a straight skirt. This bock has no ease built in, so if you try to just use it as a skirt you won’t be able to walk. That’s no bueno. You need to add at least 1″ of ease around the hips for walking and sitting. This can totally be a starting point for modern clothing, but you’re really going to want to work up a set of ease-added blocks as starting points. A good rule of thumb is to drop the front neckline 1/2″, drop the armscye 1″, add 2″ of ease around the bustline, a 1/2″ – 2″ around the waist (depends on application), and that 1″ around the hips.
I’ll be working on a printer friendly version of this, much like the one for the basic conic block, but I didn’t want that process to slow down posting this even further. If you’re just dying to send me some love for this draft, please donate through any of the free items in the shop.
Also, if you found this useful, please share it. It’s really the only way FaceBook will ever hear about it. ;)