Last week my class worked up an armscye princess manipulation, then worked it farther into a vest with facing. I’m breaking this down into two demos: one on the armscye princess manipulation from our book, and one for working the vest up. The vest will have a finished pattern attached; this one will just be the block manipulation.
For the record, this is not how I ever do this. I start with a one-dart front. I’m not sure if that’s something I made up, or if that’s how I was taught, or if I fundamentally misunderstood what I was actually taught and ended up making up my own thing. However, the book does it this way (mostly), and I try not to contradict the book too much.
We’re going to be cutting the block apart on the lines we’ve just drawn. Always, always, always, before you cut pieces apart make sure that you have a way to put them back together! We’re going to want some notches.
Your book instructions continue to add more contour below the bust. I have never bothered to do this with a basic princess line – I save it for fully contoured items like corsets and dance bodices, and I generally don’t put it on only one side of the draft. We all have our little quirks…
Both pieces of the front are done, so we can work on the back.
This time, the side piece is finished first and can be attached to the colored paper. We have to do something about the shoulder dart. Draw a line from the armscye to the dart point. Cut to, but not through, the dart point so that you can close the dart.
At this point, you are done with both the front and the back armscye princess manipulation.
If you’re trying to carry forward into the work we did to develop the vest, that demo is right here.