Sempstress

Yet another dry, dusty pile of academic writing… This time, the topic is the corsetry/torso support of the 16th century.  I find the full history of the artificial silhouette totally fascinating, and I’m geeked beyond belief on the actual genesis of the corset.  In the 16th century alone, a bunch of different devices are in play.  Corsets, obviously – who doesn’t know about the Pfaltzgrafin and Effigy corsets by now?  Wardrobe warrants also list stomachers (for Tudor gowns) made of pasteboard covered with tapheta – that’s certainly stiff enough to smooth the front of the torso into the signature tudor inverted, featureless cone.  By the end of the period, warrants talk about busks made of whalebone and wire, quilted with sarconet.  (How does that fit into a channel in a corset?!?  Or does the end of the era, with it’s open-fronted gowns, turn back to the same infrastructure used by the earlier tudor gowns with stiffened stomachers?  I have my theories, obviously….)

So here is…. Everything I know About 16th Century Corsetry, Read the rest of this entry »

File this one under “possibly useful to some one, at some time, somehow”: this is a series of pictures of corsets I’ve made over the last several years. Each one shows me standing in profile, next to my dress dummy. This makes the changes in my shape imposed by each corset fairly obvious, and the pictures all together give you a pretty good idea what different types of boning and styles of corset can do for a girl. Read the rest of this entry »

This is a corded effigy style corset. The idea of using cording
instead of a more normal boning belongs to Jen, who did a lot of research in
that direction in the course of her
Italien dress. The pattern for this corset more closely follows the actual
effigy corset than the effigy style corsets I have made in the past. The corset
is made of two layers of cotton broadcloth, and stiffened with hemp cord. Some
parts of the side back, which do not provide support to anything crucial, are
stiffened with jute packing twine (I ran out of hemp at an inopportune time).
Where hemp is used, there are two strands per channel. Where jute is used, there
are 4.

Results and Notes:The corset provides more than adequate support,
as you can see above. It is also extremely easy to move and bend in (I can do
backbends in this), and does not seem to have any serious effects on my attempts to breathe. The effigy pattern is generally far less restrictive than the standard issue back lacing corsets that some people prefer, but the corded effigy seems even more so. The only problem that I have noticed so far is that the line of the corset deformed in the face of rather extreme heat and humidity, as seen
in the picture to the right. However, I should note that when I say, “rather extreme”, what I mean is that it was 97 or so at faire that day, and I was overheating in a big bad way, so I stuck a hose down the back of my dress and turned it on. Hemp seems to lose some of it’s rigidity when soaked through.

Would I do it again?: No. I don’t think I’m willing to
rely on just hemp for boning in the more rigid, later elizabethan styles like
the effigy. I will most likely make up another “working class” corset with the
boning running straight up and down, solely done up with hemp. I will probably
also try to do up an effigy boned with reed, which is significantly less floppy
than hemp cord.

This is a corded petticoat, meant to be worn in place of a farthingale under middle class costumes. The base of the skirt is cheap cotton broadcloth, and it is stiffened with 3.8″ cotton upholstery cord filling held in a channels created with 1″ wide ribbon. There are two channels – the first goes once round the bottom, and the second is a single spiral that goes up the rest of the petticoat. This is based on a picture from the Milanese Tailor’s Handbook which seems to show a spiral pattern of trim or possible benting on an underskirt.

Results and Notes: The petticoat has help up without deforming for 3 months on my dress dummy, and has held it’s shape under up to 4 moderate skirts. I’ve taken it to faire once now, and it is readily foldable and returns to it’s shape when unfolded. It did not seem to have any problems holding out my skirts when I was moving, while being worn under one medium weight cotton blend petticoat and one wool (lined with muslin) kirtle. The only problem I encountered was that the top row of cording is a little smaller than I would like, and I can’t easily swing my leg over a bench. Technically, I suppose shouldn’t be doing that anyway. ;) When I make another of these, I will not use plain cotton as the base of the petticoat. I will use something with more slip to it (at least polished cotton, possibly satin) so that it is easier to thread the cording through the channel.

Will I do it again?: Yes.