French Seam
Posted on Friday, July 9th, 2010 at 3:22 pmSkill Level: Beginner
Niceness: Very Pretty
Pros: Entirely Machined, Reinforced, Very Neat, Will Not Fray
Cons: Takes Time
Best For: Seams that Take Stress, Thinner Fabric, Unlined Garments
PDF The French Seam is my favorite seam of all time. It’s fully encased and leaves no visible stitching on the right side of the garment. Any time I have to make an unlined garment, you can bet I’m using french seams (or some variant thereof).
Sample:
The finished French Seam, from the back.
Critical Stats:
Width:Variable, but 1/4″ is common.
Seam Allowance Required: 1/2″ for 1/4″ finished seam, or twice the desired finished seam.
Process
With WRONG sides together, sew at 1/2 the seam allowance specified by the pattern.
Trim down by half.
Note: I very frequently combine these two steps by serging. I like my seams extra strong!
Fold the fabric around the seam. Right sides will now be together.
Sew at the original seam line indicated by the pattern.
A finished French Seam. This sealed flange hangs on the inside of the garment.
The French Seam, seen from the right side. On a non-sheer fabric, this is completely invisible.
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