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Felled Seam

A Felled Seam is a nicely enclosed, reinforced seam.  We tend to associate it with modern blue jeans, but it’s a very traditional bit of stitchery.  Most of the shirts and smocks in Patterns of Fashion 4 use a handworked Fell seam.

Sample:

A finished Fell Seam, seen from the top.
A finished Fell Seam, seen from the top.

Critical Stats:

Width: 1/4″-1/2″
Seam Allowance Required: 1/2″-1″

Process

With WRONG sides together, sew fabric together with seam allowanced indicated by pattern.
With WRONG sides together, sew fabric together with seam allowanced indicated by pattern.
Trim one of the seam allowances to 1/2 its original width.
Trim one of the seam allowances to 1/2 its original width.
One allowance trimmed, one left intact.  Very important.
One allowance trimmed, one left intact. Very important.
Fold the larger seam allowance over the trimmed seam allowance.  Press.
Fold the larger seam allowance over the trimmed seam allowance. Press. (I'm finger pressing for this sample.)
Open the seam, so that the seam allowances are on top to one side.
Open the seam, so that the seam allowances are on top to one side.
Sew the folded edge down.
Sew the folded edge down.
The finished Fell Seam from the front.
The finished Fell Seam from the front.
The finished Fell Seam from the back.
The finished Fell Seam from the back.

One Comment

  1. Rebecca Egan
    Rebecca Egan July 12, 2011

    I linked you on my site today…..thanks again for sharing and webbing all this wonderful information!

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