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See, by using these direction instead of buying a commercial pattern, you got a custom fitted piece and you saved anywhere between 5$ and 45$. If you send me some of that, I can afford the time to work in this site, instead of working on paying gigs. And we all win.
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The Simple Caul, like the Biggins Hat, is a hat comprised of a Band and a Gathered Crown. The following instructions assume that you have already made your Basic Brim Patterns. If you have not, you'll want to follow the link and do so.
This hat is appropriate for ladies with any class, especially those with any pretensions. For the upper classes, the back of the caul can be embroidered or otherwise decorated before it is attached to tbe band, or made of very fine cloth.
Note: These directions do not teach a modern Milliery approach to hat-making. I've completely eliminated the use of standard hat sizes and head-size ovals, because I'm assuming that most of the people reading this are *not* trying to set up a hat-making shop. The method I've worked out below works, but doesn not produce standardized patterns sizes unless you are one of the lucky few who actually possesses a standard size head.
Making Up the Band |
To make the Band, you will need your target head, fabric, a ruler, and a pen, as well as a sewing machine, thread, and scissors. In spite of this picture, we'll be using muslin for this caul. Trust me |
The caul sits back farther on the head than the Biggins. |
By a bizaire coincidence of cranial geometry, the inside of your master brim pattern is almost exactly the right pattern to sit on the back of the head where a caul does. I can't explain that, but it *is* awfully convenient. |
Whether you choose to to measure the head with a flexible ruler, or measure against the inside of your master brim pattern, you do have to measure. You want to cut a strip that measurement plus 1" (that's a 1/2" seam allowance on each end) in length by 2" in width. (Here, I'm being a smartie pants and measuring/cutting on the fold.) |
Sew the band edges together with a 1/2" seam allowance to make a full circle. |
Making Up the Bag |
The outside edge of your master brim pattern is the right size for making a small caul, and requires no extra work. I like that. |
It's not very exciting, but there you go.... |
Run a line of long gathering stitches about 1/4" away from the edge of the bag. |
Pull the gathering threads to gather the Bag down. You'll probably need it a little more gathered than this. |
Attaching the Bag to the Band |
Distriibute the gathers as evenly as possible, then mark the quarter points of the Bag. (Note: I am told that clever people mark the quarter points of the bag *before* they start to gather it. I never remember. It will work out basically ok no matter how you do it.) |
Fold the band in half (so it is 1" wide). Mark the quarter points of the band. |
Pin the quarter points of the bag together with the quarter points of the band. The raw edges of the folded band should be pinned to the raw edge of the bag. (Note: In this picture, the band is *not* folded so that it is easier to see the pinning process.) |
Pull the gathering on the bag out until the bag and the band are the same size. (Note: In this picture, the band is *not* folded so that it is easier to see the pinning process.) |
The Narrow French Seam |
We will be joining the parts with a narrow french seam. Start by sewing the parts together, following the line of the gathering stitches. |
We will be joining the parts with a narrow french seam. Start by sewing the parts together, following the line of the gathering stitches. |
If your stitching isn't straight and your gathering stitches will show, you can remove the gathering stitches by pulling gently on the threads |
Carefully trim the seam allowance to 1/8". Be very careful and very neat here. |
Fold the band over the raw seam allowance, so that the raw edge is encased and the seam line is visible at the edge of the fold. You'll be able to feel the bulk of the seam allowance inside the fold. Remember how you trimmed the seam allowances to 1/8"? You're now going to sew just a thread past 1/8" from the seam line, so that the edges are totally sealed. This is the narrow french seam. |
This is the hand position you'll use to guide the fabric, seen from the seamstress' view. |
The finished seam. |
Now, here's the reason for using such a fussy little seam -- it's totally finished inside. It's also a more sturdy seam, since it's sewn twice. |
Yay! The finished caul is also the perfect compliment to any hat you might happen to make. |
