This is really meant as support material for my Flat Pattern I students, to help them with their sample problems. The rest of the world might find this completely boring. ;)
Students in my class: This covers how I want you to handle simple single dart manipulations, and the format I would like to see your samples worked up in.
Students in anyone else’s classes: However your teacher says to do this is The Right Way(tm) for their class. Seriously.
Teachers of other classes, especially if you use the Armstrong book: You have free use any of this if it’s at all helpful.
People wondering why I’m doing this here: It’s the format I’m used to writing demos in. That makes it easier, and increases the chances of it getting done. Also, this is maybe, just possibly, useful to someone working with doll blocks… ;)
Ok, let’s go!
For the first two sets of simple, single dart manipulations, the first thing you will need is a copy of the single dart front sloper. There should be a pile of them in the classroom, but you can also scan/print or copy page 787 in your text book. You will also need the handout for the sample set you are working on.
Please note: this is a 1/2 scale sloper. We are using this 1/4″ measurement because that is what was used with the original dart.
That cutout in the middle of the dart jog represents the part of the dart that would have gone past the waistline. The second fold lets us find that so we can trim it out of the final pattern.
The text shows you to just add seam allowances on darts like these. That’s a good idea for bulky fabrics. This method is good for lighter fabrics, like our muslin. Since we don’t end up with a seam allowance inside the dart, we don’t have to do any special finishing to prevent fraying.
Secure a sheet of tracing paper over your blue paper. You will be completing the pattern on your tracing paper. First, draw exactly around the edges of the sloper and the new dart you just made.
Remember to square up corners. Your teacher can spot unsquared corners from across the room, sometimes without even looking. It’s like a Spidey-Sense(tm).