You probably won’t finish this demo with an overwhelming sense of “Whoa! *Mind*blown*,” but I thought I’d put this out there. Also, I’m in the middle of writing a thing that requires a skirt block so it seems kinda rude to leave you hangin’ for one….
We need to set ourselves up to add a little ease into this block, so that things like walking and sitting are possible. Well, I mean, possible in wovens, before the advent of spandex. You know, back when our clothes told us when it was time to lay off the snackies? I sometimes feel like what we teach in Flat Pattern is woefully out of date, but textile sciences have changed a lot in the last couple decades.
We’re starting to look like the top of a skirt! We need to finalize our darts. Generally, the guideline for front darts is 3-3.5″, and back darts are 5-5.5″. This depends entirely on what book you’re looking at (le sigh). These guides aren’t ideal for all bodies, but they’re what those of us who notice darts are used to seeing.
The illustration you’re looking at is based on the mathless draft I worked up on a size 8 stand. The High Hip line (sometimes called the Abdominal Arc) is 3″ below the waist on this stand. If you’re working from personal measurements, your darts may have a different relationship with the High Hip line. Don’t get all too worked up about it.
This is going to be the center of the new dart. From here on out, we’re going to tackle the front and back separately.
We’ll start with the front:
Caveat: If the edges of your Side Front and Center Front come together before that, end your dart where they come together. Never fight your shape because you’re following directions. ;)
The front is basically done, but it’s reeeeeaaaaaaaalllllllly short. We’re in the realm of is-that-technically-a-short-skirt-or-a-wide-belt? Dunno about you, but that’s not really my look. For blocks, mid-thigh seems to be a really common length.
For many bodies (especially the ones that don’t have baby bumps), the front is going to be the easy bit. The back gets us into a few more conundrums and caveats, because there’s an amazing diversity within the realm of bums, butts, behinds, backsides, trunks, junks, lady lumps, and badonka-donks. (Is badonka-donk still a word people use?)
I mean, technically, they should be the exact same length. Here’s the sitch: when you did up your mathless draft, you divided the body based on what was visually middle on the shoulder, then visually straight down from that. In reality, the human form is three dimensional and rather unacquainted with the idea of “straight.” (Side note: I actually did just freak and look up the rules of periods and quotation marks. I think grad school is getting to me.) It’s not a thing bodies do. Here are some rear-view situations to be aware of:
Regardless of your fitting, here is the next obvious next step:
Ta-da! You have a skirt block you are ready to fit.