I am fairly certain that there’s a good mathy sort of word for this situation. I am equally sure that my own terminology makes my sister the math major cringe a lotta bit. On the other hand, whatever intensely mathematical process we’re actually accomplishing with a clear ruler here, she’ll be able to use it as a real-world example for her students some day. Hopefully, that will help her forgive my abuse of basic geometric definitions….
Kohler’s diagram indicates that the neckline on the overdress is rounded, slightly less than 1″ wider than the neckline of the coat diagram I used for the chemise, and just under 1″ higher than it at the center front. Now, that’s all fine, but I put festive embroidery around the neckline of that silly little chemise, and I would like for it to show somewhat. I have no information on how accurate this choice may or may not be, as I have precisely one diagram that claims to be represent a dress of this era, and all the pictures I’ve seen have necklines rather swathed in veils and cloaks. This is a moment of vanity and artistic license. I have those. :)
Since the front and back of the pattern are mostly the same, I’m drawing them together. This saves a lot of time. Also, it’s one of those crazy conventions that you see in very old patterns, so it’s worth getting familiar with!
Kohler’s diagram indicates that the width of the closure is half the width of the neckline, and that the neckline is half the width of the top of the dress. My neckline is wider, so the I don’t think that proportion will work for me.
The dots, incidentally, are meaningless – I just put little dots or circles along any lacing edge to remind myself that, indeed, that’s where I mean to put the lacing. These aren’t spaced right or anything. It’s just a visual note.
Next… The Sleeve