Drafting an Elizabethan Square Necked Chemise – No Math Required!

square neck chemise - line drawing
correction
I got a little sharpie-happy here. The line above the neckline shouldn't really be there!
checking back of block against front pattern
Check the back of the block against the front chemise pattern. Since the back is smaller, we're all good. If it was larger for some reason, we'd want to repeat these steps to draft the back.
adjusting back necline
The back neckline should be higher than the front. I've drawn it in in purple. (Since the back and front patterns of the smock are the same, I'm just making a visual note on the pattern.)
beginning sleeve draft
I need a sleeve. It will be a rectangle. I am starting by extending the top bar of my original T.
marking sleeve length
Mark the length of your sleeve on this line. Your sleeve should be your shoulder-to-wrist length. If you want a sleeve that makes a nice poof at the bottom, add 2" for a human, or 1/2" for a doll.
marking sleeve width
The width of your sleeve should be at least the same as the widest part of your arm. Complete the rectangle. I've made this a little wider, because Tyler's arms are freakishly long and the piece looked weird otherwise!
labels added
It's a pretty good idea to label the pieces.

Next… The Rest of the Draft

1 Comment

  1. Oh, I should mention something: you can use this method with a bodice that fits as well, in case you don’t have a conic block. (Obviously, you should skip the step where you cut the block in half!) Since a bodice usually has some compression built in, you’ll want to draw the side of the front panel out a little farther – otherwise, you’ll be asking your chemise to do the work of a bodice, and it will be very difficult to get into!

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