Drafting a Semi-Fitted Chemise from a Princess Line Pattern

measuring length

I've drawn in the side seam above the waist. To finish the side seam, we'll need to know length from the waist of the chemise to the ground.

finishing the side seam

Square your ruler up to your waist arc at the end of the side seam you have so far. Draw a line the length of the chemise from waist to ground.

edges and hem marks for skirt

I've drawn in both sides of the chemise below the waist. Since our waistline is on an arc, our hemline has to fall on the same arc or it will fall unevenly. Pick several points along the waist arc, square up your ruler, and mark a point at the length of the chemise. Connect these in an arc.

There are two things to note here: a) I’m almost positive that this should really be done with a side gore, but it’s not in Kohler’s diagram, and I’m basically lazy. Point b) speaking of gores, we just made one. That process of transferring the waist arc down to the hem creates a gore. (Creating a gore without an existing waist arc is slightly more involved. If you’re interested, I’ve got an eBook on a possibly period method for doing it. Shameless, ain’t I?)

altering the top of the bodice.

Because Kohler's diagram shows a slanted armscye rather than a modern one, I've drawn one using the pattern armscye as a guide. I've also blocked out the top of the chemise.

I will need a neckline, larger than the neck. Ideally, it will be large enough to put a head through.

drawing the neckline

Kohler's neckline is square. I am drawing asquare neckline. Taking it over to the princess line on the shoulder will generally give you a big enough hole. (Tyler has an oversized head, so I'll be cheating and adding a slit in the back.)

Next… The Sleeve

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