Pics of the Eleventh Century Chemise on Tyler

I finished the chemise. Yay! Technically, it’s taken from a pattern Kohler gives for a coat (A History of Costume, pg 136). His text claims that a chemise would be cut in the same way, but with shorter sleeves. I went a little embroidery-happy on this, so maybe it is more like a cote. I might make a plain one for underneath and dye this one a festive color. I haven’t decided yet…

kohler chemise, full front

Isn't she demure?

closeup of neck and cuffs

A better shot of the top. I embroidered!

The neck and cuffs combine two stitches I normally use for utility sewing: the blanket stitch and a decorative knot. (I finally found a use for my uncanny ability to knot up embroidery floss at 30 paces….)

the embroidered hem

I embroidered the hem. This is technically wrong for this era, but it's so gosh-darned cute!

Hemline embroidery was pretty much ix-nay by the early medieval period. It was more of a Carolingian/Byzantine thing. I did it to hide machine stitching at the hem. This is, technically, not the worst inaccuracy in this little coat/cote/chemise/under-tunic thing… ;)

closeup of shoulders

Here's a closeup of the shoulders. You can start to see the problem with set of the sleeves in this pattern - it creates a lot of bulk around the shoulders. The bulk increases towards the bottom.

the chemise from the back

From the back, you can see that the cut of the pattern does do at least a little to follow the line of the body. Not a lot, mind you, but a little.

the neckline, from the back

In back, you can see the slit that I originally planned and embroidered. You can also see that I had to extend it.

Tyler’s little shoulders don’t squish. *grumble* I didn’t have a problem when I tested it on Lizzle. To get Tyler into the darned chemise, I had to split it down to the hip. I bound the edges with a blanket stitch (just one row, this time). I whipped the edges together once the doll was inside, with a large stitch that resembles spiral lacing. Sewing a body into it’s clothing isn’t the most advanced way of handling closures, but it works. And, really, I mean, she is a doll….

side view

The side view, which is shockingly unexciting....

another front view

Have you ever considered the difficulty of trying to dress pleats in a super-long, doll-sized linen garment? They do not want to lie like this. They want to be big and sproingy and poofy. Stupid linen....

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