Curved Front Corset

 

I noticed a while back that most of the bodices in Alcega’s
book and several other period tailor’s books show a slight backwards S curve
at the front edge. That seemed like it would accommodate the bust and belly
a little, and I was feeling like being comfortable, so I decided to give it
a shot. I included a picture of what was left of the fabric after I cut the
pieces, because it looked surprisingly like bodice cutting diagrams shown in
period resources. The last picture is a boning diagram, just in case anyone
was curious.

Results and Notes:The resulting corset was quite
comfortable, and gives a very nice line. I was pretty happy with it. I didn’t
get that terrible sinking feeling you can sometimes get from a heavily boned
corset with a straight front

Would I do it again?: Yes. In fact, I’m actually planning to repair the one I made (the boning wore through wool surprisingly quickly, much to my dismay). But, honestly, to do it right I’d have had to remake all of my bodices with a curved front, and that was like work. Not sure I’ll do that. Trimming things gets complicated.

15 thoughts on “Curved Front Corset

  1. missa says:

    Hi, Rebecca – This is boned with heavy-duty cable ties. The curve looks like it shouldn’t work if you think about it flat, because the ziptie would have to manage to squiggle (something they’re really designed to refuse to do). But if you think about it three dimensionally, that curve translates into a smooth series of hills, for lack of a better term – that’s something zip ties do brilliantly. I’ve done one of these with strimmer line, which also worked out fine. I can’t think of a reason why hemp wouldn’t work.

    7 years ago | Reply

    • missa says:

      Um…. It has a size and weight? Good to know…. I use whatever I can get on sale. Ideally, you want to use the really crap kind that’s just round in profile – the stuff that grass just sort of laughs at and dodges. The good stuff, with the star-shaped profile, is harder to get into the channels and seems to cut through the fabric over time. Hope that helps!

      7 years ago | Reply

  2. missa says:

    *laugh* You know, when you put it just like that, I feel a little sheepish for not realizing it was a problem until it started happening…. Good luck!

    7 years ago | Reply

    • missa says:

      Surely! Thank you for asking, and I’m totally flattered. :) if your students are interested in drafting techniques, they might also like the block party ebook.

      7 years ago | Reply

  3. Fittings. Oh boy. « A Few Beautiful Things says:

    […] I quite like the idea of this corset by Semptress: http://www.sempstress.org/2009/curved-front-corset/ […]

    5 years ago | Reply

  4. Tudor Lady’s Part 1: Researching the Bodies | House Black Sun - M. Altobelli says:

    […] Sempstress.org, I found a wonderful post about recreating the curved front corset as shown in the Juan de Alcega tailor’s book and “several other period tailor’s books”.  […]

    3 years ago | Reply

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