Jim’s Court Costume

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Jim approached me about making a costume design he and his wife had done into a
reality. Give or take some slightly fancier peblums, this is basically what they had in mind.
(Yes, I stuck to a plan. Well, except for one bit where I ditzed out on what fabric I was supposed
to use.)

The doublet is made of white jacquard and black upholstery fabric,
lined with two layers of duck cloth to give it some body. The sleeves are made
of a light weigh stretch wool, and tie in to the doublet. The stripy detail
is a wide ribbon, edged with braid, with diagonal lines of braid out to the
center closure of the sleeve. The sleeves close where the stripes meet, with
hooks and eyes. The doublet is closed with hook and eye tape. The chevron stripes
on the shoulders are all made with applied braid. That was a pain in the patout-y,
really.

The slops are made of strips of fabric, with a line of ribbon
edged with braid down each. The panes are mounted on to a vandyked waist line,
which follows the bottom edge of the doublet. Behind the panes is a lining of
jacquard. They’re pretty much standard issue slops. The only thing I did that
might be unique was to line the leg bands with satin, so that the nice slippery
satin faces the leg and prevents the leg band from sticking to the tights.

There is a cloak that goes with the costume, in a teal green velvet. (It’s not in
this picture because it wasn’t done yet.) It’s actually a 3/4 circle cloak, made of a highly
stretchy spandex laden velvet, interlined with a highly not-stretchy cotton jacquard, and trimmed
with five lines of various trims. I had about sixteen nervous breakdowns making it, but it worked
pretty well. I worry about the stretchy layers stretching and bagging when I do things like that.

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