Comments on: 1570s Italien Doublet http://www.sempstress.org/2000/1570s-italien-doublet/ (costume & pattern geekery) Tue, 07 Feb 2012 05:32:49 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 By: Ysabel of Unicorn http://www.sempstress.org/2000/1570s-italien-doublet/comment-page-1/#comment-3627 Ysabel of Unicorn Sat, 02 Oct 2010 18:08:06 +0000 http://www.sempstress.org/instructions/1570s-italien-doublet/#comment-3627 Thank you so much, this was very helpful to get some sort of idea of what I was doing. My shoulder rolls turned out great, now all I've got left is to make myself a hat! Everyone at the (non-SCA) event I was sewing for was quite impressed. I'm sorry I didn't get back to you sooner - while the event itself went quite well, personal drama also ensued and has had me rather distracted the last couple weeks. Thank you so much, this was very helpful to get some sort of idea of what I was doing. My shoulder rolls turned out great, now all I’ve got left is to make myself a hat! Everyone at the (non-SCA) event I was sewing for was quite impressed. I’m sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner – while the event itself went quite well, personal drama also ensued and has had me rather distracted the last couple weeks.

]]> By: missa http://www.sempstress.org/2000/1570s-italien-doublet/comment-page-1/#comment-3613 missa Mon, 13 Sep 2010 22:31:57 +0000 http://www.sempstress.org/instructions/1570s-italien-doublet/#comment-3613 Hi, Ysabel. In this case, the "rolls" aren't entirely rolls at all. They're two sets of loop tabs (long finished rectangles, folded in half, raw edges sewn in to the armscye). The tabs are sort of shingled over each other in two rows. Each row is stuffed with a little sort of crescent shaped pillow, and a looser bit of cotton to make the poofs. Shoulder rolls are not really the most scientific process. ;) The other option is to make a fully stuffed roll. You'll want to make a crescent shape. The inside of the crescent should match your armscye, and the outside should be, well, bigger than that. Cut two pieces from this pattern per side, sew them up, stuff firmly and close. Using this as a base, cover with festive strips of fabric - they'll be closer together on the inside than over the top of the roll, so you'll get the right look. You'll just hand tack everything to the base pillow, and then whip stitch the pillow around the armscye. (Use carpet thread and knot often!) Hope that helps.... Hi, Ysabel. In this case, the “rolls” aren’t entirely rolls at all. They’re two sets of loop tabs (long finished rectangles, folded in half, raw edges sewn in to the armscye). The tabs are sort of shingled over each other in two rows. Each row is stuffed with a little sort of crescent shaped pillow, and a looser bit of cotton to make the poofs.
Shoulder rolls are not really the most scientific process. ;) The other option is to make a fully stuffed roll. You’ll want to make a crescent shape. The inside of the crescent should match your armscye, and the outside should be, well, bigger than that. Cut two pieces from this pattern per side, sew them up, stuff firmly and close. Using this as a base, cover with festive strips of fabric – they’ll be closer together on the inside than over the top of the roll, so you’ll get the right look. You’ll just hand tack everything to the base pillow, and then whip stitch the pillow around the armscye. (Use carpet thread and knot often!)
Hope that helps….

]]> By: Ysabel of Unicorn http://www.sempstress.org/2000/1570s-italien-doublet/comment-page-1/#comment-3611 Ysabel of Unicorn Mon, 13 Sep 2010 02:10:39 +0000 http://www.sempstress.org/instructions/1570s-italien-doublet/#comment-3611 I have wandered the internet far and wide in search of some method of creating and attaching shoulder rolls to a bodice, and stumbled across your fantastic site. Could I possibly beg some sort of explanation for how you managed the shoulder rolls on this gown? I've got an otherwise nearly complete Elizabethan (still sewing my trim on, but that's about it), and the shoulder rolls have left me mystified. (If there was something in Patterns of Fashion or Janet Arnold, forgive me - I've recently graduated and don't have access to my university library anymore.) If it helps, this is the portrait I'm using as my primary inspiration: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/gallery/1569.html Any help would be greatly appreciated - I'm quite comfortable with drafting things and figuring things out so long as I have /some/ idea of what I'm doing. I have wandered the internet far and wide in search of some method of creating and attaching shoulder rolls to a bodice, and stumbled across your fantastic site. Could I possibly beg some sort of explanation for how you managed the shoulder rolls on this gown? I’ve got an otherwise nearly complete Elizabethan (still sewing my trim on, but that’s about it), and the shoulder rolls have left me mystified. (If there was something in Patterns of Fashion or Janet Arnold, forgive me – I’ve recently graduated and don’t have access to my university library anymore.)

If it helps, this is the portrait I’m using as my primary inspiration: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/gallery/1569.html

Any help would be greatly appreciated – I’m quite comfortable with drafting things and figuring things out so long as I have /some/ idea of what I’m doing.

]]> By: missa http://www.sempstress.org/2000/1570s-italien-doublet/comment-page-1/#comment-965 missa Sun, 18 Apr 2010 17:45:07 +0000 http://www.sempstress.org/instructions/1570s-italien-doublet/#comment-965 Hi, Betsy, Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Italian and Spanish clothing from this era do have a lot of similarities, but they're working towards different aesthetics. The Italians tend to emphasize the female form (paintings from the period show bodices with a remarkable amount of cleavage going on), add softness (skirts hang more naturally about the body, shoulder treatments and sleeves show a lot of soft poofs of chemise, etc), and emphasize width (especially along the neck line/dropped sleeve area). There's a love of color, sometimes leaning towards garish. Spanish designs, on the other hand, are much stiffer and more prim - skirts are supported rigidly by the farthingale, decorations tend to be linear, the bosom is not worn so high and is thoroughly covered (either by a doublet, opaque partlet, or in the case of the Isabella de Valois (wife of Phillip II, portrait by Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1564, covered with a partlet of fine silk so heavily wrought and poofed that it might as well have been opaque - but she was a french princess), skirts have a visible tuck at the bottom (believed to ensure that the feet are covered when a woman sits). Overall, the aesthetic seems to emphasize a string vertical line right down the middle of the wearer, generally a fairly narrow color palate, and a general sense of stiffness. They're little walking fortresses. If I were making a Spanish version of the same doublet, I'd start by changing the direction of the trim - it should run more vertically, possibly still slightly chevroned in to a central vertical detail. The neckline should close in a tight collar around the neck. I think the colors would need to change - blue is seen a lot in Italian artwork in the period, but I've not seen it so much in Spanish. Thing golds, dark reds, or blacks. I'd change the shoulder treatment to something less poofy, and add a skirting detail to the bottom. Also, though not technically part of the doublet, you'll want to make sure the skirts are supported correctly. The Spanish invented the spanish farthingale (duh), and the were pretty attached to it - farthingale, without hip roll. Overall, you want to look like someone could stand you on your head and time a hard-cooked egg. ;) Hi, Betsy,

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Italian and Spanish clothing from this era do have a lot of similarities, but they’re working towards different aesthetics. The Italians tend to emphasize the female form (paintings from the period show bodices with a remarkable amount of cleavage going on), add softness (skirts hang more naturally about the body, shoulder treatments and sleeves show a lot of soft poofs of chemise, etc), and emphasize width (especially along the neck line/dropped sleeve area). There’s a love of color, sometimes leaning towards garish. Spanish designs, on the other hand, are much stiffer and more prim – skirts are supported rigidly by the farthingale, decorations tend to be linear, the bosom is not worn so high and is thoroughly covered (either by a doublet, opaque partlet, or in the case of the Isabella de Valois (wife of Phillip II, portrait by Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1564, covered with a partlet of fine silk so heavily wrought and poofed that it might as well have been opaque – but she was a french princess), skirts have a visible tuck at the bottom (believed to ensure that the feet are covered when a woman sits). Overall, the aesthetic seems to emphasize a string vertical line right down the middle of the wearer, generally a fairly narrow color palate, and a general sense of stiffness. They’re little walking fortresses.

If I were making a Spanish version of the same doublet, I’d start by changing the direction of the trim – it should run more vertically, possibly still slightly chevroned in to a central vertical detail. The neckline should close in a tight collar around the neck. I think the colors would need to change – blue is seen a lot in Italian artwork in the period, but I’ve not seen it so much in Spanish. Thing golds, dark reds, or blacks. I’d change the shoulder treatment to something less poofy, and add a skirting detail to the bottom. Also, though not technically part of the doublet, you’ll want to make sure the skirts are supported correctly. The Spanish invented the spanish farthingale (duh), and the were pretty attached to it – farthingale, without hip roll. Overall, you want to look like someone could stand you on your head and time a hard-cooked egg. ;)

]]> By: Betsy http://www.sempstress.org/2000/1570s-italien-doublet/comment-page-1/#comment-832 Betsy Tue, 13 Apr 2010 01:14:08 +0000 http://www.sempstress.org/instructions/1570s-italien-doublet/#comment-832 Beautiful! I'm interested in making a Spanish version. What are the differences you would make to make a Spanish doublet? Beautiful! I’m interested in making a Spanish version. What are the differences you would make to make a Spanish doublet?

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