1570s Italien Doublet

The images above and to the left are pictures of my new italien style woman’s
doublet being worn after the italien fashion; that is, sans farthingale. This
is always a nice option to have if you anticipate ending up in a crowded room.
The doublet was finished in time for the winter faire party for bristol back
in january. Theoretically, I have some better pictures of the full dress with
farthingale coming along any time now, but for the moment, I’ll just put up
the polaroid scans that I have. (Note: better picture have been procured, and posted above and to the right….)

The doublet and skirts are made of a heavy brushed cotton –
another $2/yard special. My mother said the fabric was a ‘heavy small whaled
whaleless corduroy’, or something like that. She knows these things. This one
did not need to be dyed. The doublet is fully self lined with the cotton. There
are two lines of boning in front. The boning casing is made with biased tape
sewn to the inside of the lining piece, so that there are no stitches visible
on the outside of the doublet. The boning runs to just below the corset line.
The doublet is shaped by a pair of curved seams at the side front and side back.
In the closeups on the dummy, you see an epaulette at the shoulders. The epaulette
is there as a mounting for the double shoulder roll in the finished doublet.

The trim on the doublet is rows of open work oatmeal colored
midi-braid surrounded by dark red gimp, layed chevronwise (in V’s, for the non-heraldry
literate) on the front and back of the doublet. Please see the closeup of the
front of the doublet, modeled by my dress dummy (the Lady Jane Beige). Actually,
the trim had to be put on the doublet pieces before they were sewn , so that
they raveling ends of the braids could be safely hidden in the seams. Getting
the braids to match up at the center back seam is more difficult than you might
imagine – not only do you need to measure everything so it comes out in the
same place, but you need to keep the braids from slipping past each other while
you sew. I don’t think I will do anything quite like this again!

skirt is lined with very cheap costume satin, so that it moves freely. Had I
been thinking, I would have gotten the satin in yellow or green or some color
that I am not likely to use as an underskirt. I didn’t realize this until the
night before I was supposed to have pictures of the costume taken, and then
I had to go on an emergency fabric run to try to find an underskirt fabric that
did not clash with the red, and did not make me look like I was decorated for
xmas. The green underskirt in the full pictures above is actually striped, with
a triple row of gimp braid along the bottom. The back and top two halves of
each side of the underskirt are faked with cheap black broadcloth. The overskirt
is just shy of 6 yards of fabric gathered down to the waistband. It is heavy.
(Combination clothing and exercise equipment.) It drapes beautifully, though.

I was happy with the end result.

5 thoughts on “1570s Italien Doublet

  1. missa says:

    Hi, Ysabel. In this case, the “rolls” aren’t entirely rolls at all. They’re two sets of loop tabs (long finished rectangles, folded in half, raw edges sewn in to the armscye). The tabs are sort of shingled over each other in two rows. Each row is stuffed with a little sort of crescent shaped pillow, and a looser bit of cotton to make the poofs.
    Shoulder rolls are not really the most scientific process. ;) The other option is to make a fully stuffed roll. You’ll want to make a crescent shape. The inside of the crescent should match your armscye, and the outside should be, well, bigger than that. Cut two pieces from this pattern per side, sew them up, stuff firmly and close. Using this as a base, cover with festive strips of fabric – they’ll be closer together on the inside than over the top of the roll, so you’ll get the right look. You’ll just hand tack everything to the base pillow, and then whip stitch the pillow around the armscye. (Use carpet thread and knot often!)
    Hope that helps….

    8 years ago | Reply

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